Nargana Experiences

Most of the inhabited islands of Kuna Yala, particularly to the west of our current location, are traditional, meaning they live as they have for hundreds of years, foregoing modern conveniences such as electricity. We have spent a few days at Nargana Yandup, here primarily because we can get internet and basic stores. We had no sooner anchored before we were approached by a cayuco. Federico introduced himself, and he is the one person we were hoping to meet in Nargana. Federico is a guide but can also take care of all our needs ashore. We sent him off with our laundry and trash. We later found out how important Federico would be as we wandered the very small island; we couldn't seem to find the tiendas, as advertising is not necessary in such a small village. At the school, we were told the internet was broken. A little later, stopping for a couple of sodas at a small shop, we found they were surprised to hear the internet was broken and suggested it was only available in the afternoon, and we probably misunderstood. Back in the afternoon, I talked to a teacher who confirmed it was indeed broken. I know this because I heard the word "modem" and then confirmed it could take weeks to repair. I also found out that the next island, Corazon de Jesus, has internet. This island is connected to Nargana by a pedestrian bridge. I set off across the bridge, not sure what I was looking for, but on the bridge, I saw a teenager with a notebook computer and asked. He said the whole island has WiFi. Spirits lifted, I just needed to find a shady spot.

I stopped at a pool hall (doesn't seem to fit the image, right?), bought a beer, and logged on. One hour and two beers later, all I had managed to do was access our emails. It is free, but way too slow for any useful purpose. The next day, we retrieved our laundry and then sent Federico off to get us some diesel fuel. Later, I went and got in line at the bank to try and get some more cash. It was a long line, always outside in this part of the world, as they control the number of people inside. After about an hour, I got my turn at the teller and found out that this branch cannot issue cash from my card. We are not short on cash, so it is not a big deal. Later in town to try the internet again, we ran into Federico and asked him to show us the tiendas. He took us to four different ones, and we bought some fruit and vegetables, but none of them were very large, and they carried very little. The timing was right as the supply boat from Colon had just arrived, so he took us down to the town dock, where we bought five pounds of ground beef off the supply boat ( $12.50). The internet still wasn't any faster; in fact, I got nothing done, so I decided to try very early in the morning. While I sat in front of the pool hall, waiting for the internet and trying to chat with the locals, Linda was out distributing small toys to the kids. She returned with the pack of them, and I safeguarded my computer. I have learned that kids love to reach out and push a key or something, and I didn't want anything to disturb my nonexistent internet session. The people here are just wonderful. We have never, in all our travels, met friendlier people. While most people in Nargana have given up the traditional dress, many women still wear it, with colors so bright and vibrant. There is a mixture of homes on the island, probably about one half are the traditional stick homes with thatched roofs, and the rest are poured concrete with tin roofs.

I finally got high-speed internet. I went into the village square, where the signal seemed the strongest just after daybreak, before many people were stirring. I couldn't believe the difference. I completed some bill paying and set up our weather data emails, which we will need. Pictures will have to wait for a better opportunity.

Posted from Coco Bandero Cays