Back In Our Home Country

We just completed our best open water passage ever. We made it from Isla Mujeres, Mexico to Dry Tortugas, a distance of 300 miles in 48 hours, by far our fastest ever passage. Of course having both favorable current and favorable wind made it both easy and possible. The same current that carried us north from Belize at 2 knots also carried us north as we crossed the Yucatan Channel. We set the boat up to sail on a close reach and just let the current carry us. We saw current as high as 3 ½ knots.

Our trip plan was developed by Linda.  She reluctantly agreed to make landfall in Dry Tortugas, a place which has always been high on the Norm's list. We arrived at Dry Tortugas National Park at a little after ten in the morning, which was perfect to allow time to get the boat organized, have lunch and then visit Fort Jefferson. After visiting the fort, Linda exclaimed it was well worth stopping there. Following our plan we set sail after dinner for an overnight trip to Boot Key in the Florida Keys. This was another pleasant sail, and we arrived there just before lunch. We now had the use of our cell phone so we called Customs and Border Protection to report our arrival. After lunch we pulled anchor and stopped at the fuel dock to top off the tank. We hadn't used much fuel, but the fuel docks are so convenient at the entrance to Boot Key harbor. We re-anchored and relaxed the afternoon away. After an early dinner we again set sail and continued along the Keys, arriving at one of our favorite anchorage spots in Miami Beach at 10:30 the following morning. Wow what a trip. We remember our very first night at sea going down the New Jersey coast six years ago. Neither of us slept at all, we were so keyed up. Now each of us falls off to sleep within minutes of being relieved from watch. What a difference a few years experience has made.

The Dry Tortugas lie about 70 miles west of Key West and are accessible only by boat or seaplane. The seven keys and surrounding coral reefs make up Fort Jefferson National Park. These keys are isolated and there are no places to fuel or provision here. 

Ariel Within Range

Ponce de Leon discovered these tiny islands in 1513 while on his famous quest for the Fountain of Youth. He called the area Las Tortugas for the large number of sea turtles that inhabited the islands. Later, the area became known as the Dry Tortugas, as the word "dry" was a warning to sailors that no fresh water was to be found here.

Surrounded By A Moat

Pirates enjoyed the isolation of the islands until 1821 when Florida became part of the US and the pirates were finally driven out. In 1825 a lighthouse was erected on Garden Key to warn of the shoals and reefs, which had sunk a great number of ships. 

High On Top Of Fort Jefferson

Then in 1846 the strategic location of the Dry Tortugas was recognized and the construction of Fort Jefferson was begun. It took some 30 years and 16 million bricks to build the hexagon shaped fort, although it never was completely finished. In 1856 the present lighthouse on Loggerhead Key was built, making it the southernmost lighthouse in the continental US.

Next To Big Gun

Federal troops occupied the fort during the Civil War where the fort served as a military prison. The most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, a physician who, not knowing of Lincoln's murder, set the broken leg of John Wilkes Booth. Dr. Mudd was sentenced to life in prison for this act.
Epidemics of yellow fever swept the fort during this time, but the efforts of Dr. Mudd saved hundreds of lives and he was pardoned in 1869. Through the efforts of his family, he was finally absolved of all guilt in 1979, 110 years after his sentencing.

Garden Key Light - Anchoring Permitted Only Within One Mile Of Light

Next Fort Jefferson became a naval base. In 1898, the battleship USS Maine left the Dry Tortugas and headed to Havana, Cuba on her fateful voyage. A year later the ship was blown up, an event which started the Spanish-American War. The fort also served as a coal station and a World War I seaplane base. Although its importance as a military base waned, it's value as a natural resource grew. John Audubon visited the Dry Tortugas in 1832 and the area was made a marine sanctuary in 1908. In 1935 it was designated as a National Monument and in 1992 it became a National Park. Today the area is known for its abundant bird and marine life, its legends of pirates and sunken gold, and of course, for its incredible, unspoiled beauty.

Several of the keys in the Dry Tortugas are off limits during the nesting season between March and September when some 100,000 sooty terns call Bush Key home. Disturbing the nest can be death for young birds. Brown and black noddies also nest in the vegetation between the sootie's rookery. While Bush Key is closed during the nesting season, Hospital and Long Keys are closed to visitors all year. All keys, with the exception of Garden Key (where Fort Jefferson is located) are open only during daylight hours. 

Prison Where Dr Mudd Was Held

Some of the other birds that are likely to be spotted include the magnificent frigate birds with their huge seven-foot wingspan, masked boobies, brown boobies, double-crested cormorants, brown pelicans and roseate terns.

There are day trips from Key West by boat or sea plane and if in Key West we recommend checking into it. Take along swim wear and a nice lunch. Bring everything you will need and plan to leave with any trash you may have.

Stopping in the Dry Tortugas was a nice relaxing stop after three years in Central America before entering Government Cut in Miami and then dropping anchor in Miami Beach. While very relaxing on the boat we are surrounded by luxury homes and can just feel the pace of a very vibrant city. We are happy to be back in the United States. We were really impressed with the new dinghy dock the city has built across from the Publix grocery store. No where have we been has shopping been easier than in Miami Beach and with free WiFi provided by the city, this place is hard to beat.