Isla de Providencia

Colombian Flag

Ashore in Providencia, we were hearing three languages. They would speak to us in English or Spanish, often starting with Spanish, but quickly switching to English once they knew it was our preference. However, the language heard on the street and in the stores, shops, and restaurants is Kriol, the native language.

We were very interested in the history of the island and how it became Colombian, with its close proximity to the Nicaraguan coast. Looking into this, we found the history, like the island itself, to be fascinating.



A Morgan Cannon

Morgans Head

Providence Island was settled by Puritans in 1630. They found the tropical island more promising than the cold and harsh New England shores. The development of Providence was nothing like that of the New England colony. They used slave labor to work the plantations and resorted to privateering. The privateering led to their capture by the Spanish in 1641. In 1670, English buccaneers led by Sir Henry Morgan took control of the island and held it until 1689.

In 1803, Spain assigned the area that includes Isla de Providencia and San Andres to be administered by Cartahenga (Colombia). In 1822, these colonies became independent but voluntarily aligned with the Republic of Colombia.





Fort Warwick

With the islands not far off the coast of Nicaragua, one would expect a difference of opinion as to ownership, and indeed, there is. In 1928, Colombia and Nicaragua signed a treaty giving Colombia control of the islands. In the 1980's the Sandinista government assumed power in Nicaragua and repudiated the treaty.

In 2009, the International Court of Justice ruled that the islands were Colombian territory. Still to be resolved in the International Court of Justice is a maritime border dispute, since Nicaragua claims the waters these islands lie in as its territory. Colombia maintains a military presence on these islands. We have seen troops rotating, being transported by the Navy. We know from fellow cruisers that they even keep troops stationed on the Albuquerque Cays, an uninhabited atoll southwest of here.

The chart for Isla de Providencia is based on the British survey completed in 1835. It shows the safe route through the coral reef is done by lining up the front edge of Morgan's Head with Fairway Hill in the distance. Studying these old charts is interesting. What the chart does not show is that a ship's channel has been cut with modern lighted buoys. It was a little disconcerting following the marked channel while the chart indicated we were passing directly over coral heads, which, if they could severely damage our boat in short order.



We are anchored in a protected bay just off Santa Isabel Village, the largest settlement. Supplies for the island come from San Andres to a pier at this village. The pier, close by to us, is a beehive of activity when a supply boat arrives. We have found everything we need in town. Our biggest issue was finding an internet connection with enough speed to accomplish even simple tasks such as sending an email. After spending several days and hours at an internet cafe, paying for time, not data, I finally got a lead on a faster source. I tracked down the guy who manages the computer and networks for the government. He gave me access to their system, which is free, and I can work in one of the government buildings.

As you might expect, the diet here centers around fish, and it is so good. It makes it easy when planning to dine out, just plan for seafood.

We have found the people friendly wherever we have been, but particularly so in Providencia. They know we are on one one the boats, that goes without saying, and it is obvious they want to help. We have found it very easy to become engaged in conversation.