Placencia

We are now in Placencia, only the third community we have been to in Belize, and the first on the mainland. San Pedro, where we cleared in, is actually on Ambergris Caye. After leaving Caye Caulker, we traveled short distances and stayed behind some of the numerous cays that lie behind the barrier reef. Most of the cays are uninhabited, some are private, and a few have only fishing camps. For the most part, we had the place to ourselves with no one within sight as far as we could see.

We have really lost contact with news from the United States since losing our satellite radio signal. We tried the BBC on the HF radio, but the short time they were on did not carry any real news of importance to us. We were talking with a cruising family from Vancouver, and they asked if we knew whether the healthcare bill in the US had passed. Well, that was old news, so we were able to answer that one. Logically, you would think that with the internet, we could keep up. Our internet access is sporadic, so when we get it, we have much higher priorities than checking on news stories.

The boats that are headed for the Rio Dulce are in pretty good numbers now. There is a full moon coming up, so there will be dozens taking advantage of the higher tides to get across the bar outside the entrance to the Rio Dulce. Our draft is such that we do not have to worry so much about timing. We plan to stay here in Placencia for another four or five days and then clear out of Belize and head for Guatemala, which will be our home, or at least Ariel's home, for the hurricane season.

Here in Placencia, the Paradise Resort Hotel is cruiser-friendly, with free WiFi, trash disposal, laundry, and happy hour - who could ask for more? This is our new temporary hangout.

Norm got a new face mask, although not a very good one, and he decided to finish cleaning the bottom of the hull. He immediately found that two barracuda had taken up residence under the boat, up against the hull. They didn't seem happy with his arrival and approached him in an intimidating fashion. He was hesitant, but one was about 20 inches, and the other was smaller, so he decided they could not do too much harm. They behaved just like little nippy dogs. They would approach menacingly to within about six inches, and then if he made a move toward them, they would dart away but come right back and repeat.  He decided to ignore them as best he could. He was down there for about 1 1/2 hours, and they were still there when he finished, still playing the same old game.

Belize

Belize is a small country, about the size of Massachusetts, and with a population of only about 300,000. With such a small population, Belize's environment and wildlife can thrive. Belize is protected from the sea by a barrier reef, the largest in the Western Hemisphere. At 185 miles in length, it is second only to the Great Barrier Reef in size. Belize gained its independence from Britain in 1981. Belize is culturally diverse with Creoles, Latinos, Maya, Garifuna, East Asians, and whites. Belize also has a sizable Mennonite community, which has been helpful in Belize's becoming self-sufficient in chicken, dairy products, and corn.

We really feel like we have transitioned into another world and can certainly understand how cruisers stay year after year. We feel like rookies again when we meet cruisers who have been in the Northwest Caribbean for years. Certainly, Belize is the best cruising ground we have encountered to date. The locals are friendly, and we enjoy interacting with them. Our surroundings are just beautiful beyond description. The water temperature is in the mid-80s. The temperature on the boat, as long as we have the trade winds, hovers between a low of about 80 just before sunrise and about 90 at the peak. It is bearable with fans going and decent winds. I think we are adapting because if it gets into the 70s, we feel a chill.

San Pedro

San Pedro

San Pedro

San Pedro

WiFi Spot on Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

Traveling To San Pedro

It was quite the adventure traveling from Isla Mujeres, Mexico, to San Pedro, Belize. We cleared out of Mexico easily enough, first stopping at the Immigration office and then completing the final paperwork with the Port Captain. He issued us our all-important Zarpe (clearance document). We had estimated two long travel days, the first about 18 hours and the second about 24 hours. After lunch, we got underway,  and with the steady trade winds, the sailing was good. There is a two and sometimes three-knot current flowing south to north. The only way to minimize the impact is to stay close to shore, which is often near a reef. It turns out this is easier said than done.

We always carry paper charts, but navigate with electronic charts. The electronic charts are made from the same data used for paper charts, so they are no more accurate. We found very little depth-sounding data along the Mexican coast, and some of what we observed was wildly inaccurate.

During daylight, we attempted to maintain a depth of 60 feet, which put us in close but not so close that we would get into trouble. At night, we moved out to a depth of 100 feet. The continental shelf is very close to shore, so often we were in very deep water (too deep to get a sounding) and, of course, running against the current. We arrived at our planned stop behind Culebra Cay in Bahia de la Ascension at 8:45 am. It was a very quiet, isolated location and a good place to rest.

The following day, we left right after listening to the cruiser's net on the SSB radio. We continued to use our same strategy, using the depth sounder to keep a comfortable distance from the shore. During the night, the winds began to build, and with that, the seas became a little rougher. We both got unexpected soakings whenever a wave would hit the boat at an awkward angle.

The entrance to San Pedro through the barrier reef is very narrow. It requires executing a right-hand turn immediately after clearing the barrier reef to avoid running up on the drying reef. We began to expect it would not be possible to enter with the heavy waves, but pulled in close to have a look. The yellow buoy, which marks the entrance, was out of sight behind the rollers more often than being visible, so it was not a hard decision to pass on that.

The bad news was that the next safe entrance was an additional six hours away.  We have learned to take these things in stride, so we just picked a new waypoint and pushed on.  We entered the main channel, which is very wide and deep.  This is the way the cruise ships enter Belize.  We anchored behind Water Cay, the first available place to stop.  We were anchored at 3:30 pm.  We had to clean the boat, especially the cockpit, which was sticky with saltwater.  We actually waited for our first Belize sunset before retiring to bed.  The next day, we left at 6:30 am so we could get to San Pedro in plenty of time to check in.  We didn't realize it at the time, but it was 5:30 am Belize time.  They do not have daylight saving time in Belize.  Keeping track of time has been more challenging than expected.  Mexico just switched to DST on April 4.

Our charts are much better in Belize waters, which makes sense since Belize was a British colony and the charts are British Admiralty. Traveling back to San Pedro inside the reef was an entirely new experience. Even though the charts were better, it would not be prudent to attempt travel in some of these areas without Freya Rauscher's Cruising Guide. The water can get very skinny. We traveled for miles with depths of around six feet. Your whole perspective changes, so when it goes to seven feet, you feel you can now relax, now that the water is deep again. Norm thought he was slightly off track at one point, steering by headings and object sightings (no GPS waypoint), and, in correcting, we found ourselves rubbing the keel on the bottom for a while. No harm, as it is all sand, and we don't think there is any paint left on the bottom of the keel anyway. Luckily, we were able to push our way back to deeper water - ah,  now six feet sounds good.

Finally, at 11:15 am (10:15 am Belize), we were anchored in San Pedro. We finally became aware of the actual time when we got to Immigration and had to wait for them to return from lunch. Several people were waiting. Belize only grants 30 days at a time, so everyone else was there to renew for another 30 days. You can easily get additional days, but it requires a visit to Immigration every 30 days. The first 30 days are free, but after that, it is $50 for the next 30 days and every 30 days thereafter.

Checking into Belize was very straightforward. We first went to Immigration and then next door to Customs. Each charged us a $20 US boarding fee. (In Belize, either currency can be used, and they can be intermingled in the same transaction. The ratio is $1 US = $2 B. After completing the paperwork at customs, we took a customs officer out to Ariel in our dinghy for his cursory inspection.

Now to enjoy Paradise

Enjoying Isla Mujeres

Anchorage at Isla Mujeres (Picture taken from ferry)

One of the many ferries that run between Puerto Juarez (Cancun) and Isla Mujeres

It could be really easy to get too comfortable here in Isla Mujeres and forget to move on. We plan to leave Monday after Easter, bound for Belize. We typically get our day started first by listening to the Northwest Caribbean net on the SSB radio and then the Isla Mujeres net on the VHF radio. The majority of the cruisers we have met are heading in the opposite direction. Cruiser gatherings, such as potlucks or breakfast at local restaurants, are announced on the radio, making it easy to meet other cruisers.

Cancun now has three Walmarts. We didn't go to Walmart, but we did go to the Sam's Club and bought a few groceries. It was interesting. The layout and operating procedures appeared to be the same, but the goods carried were tailored to the local community's preferences.

On Good Friday, we noticed a large crowd moving south along Rueda Medina, the major north-south road. We assumed it was related to Good Friday and then spotted a cross being carried as confirmation. We hurried in and joined the solemn procession of hundreds just before entering town. The reenactment of Christ's crucifixion was very well done and a moving experience.

Chichén Itzá

Some people have asked us about or expressed a concern about our safety in Mexico, especially with the recent news of the violence in the border regions. For us, the opposite is true. While we have not even been here two weeks, we have covered a lot of ground, and we could not feel more secure. In Mérida, a fairly large city, we wandered all over and never felt even a hint of insecurity or impoliteness. We did not even hear a single police siren during our stay. The police were present in the parks, at intersections to keep traffic flowing, and at government sites to provide security. For the most part, we sought out restaurants and cafes away from the hotels, trying to avoid any that might cater to tourists. We were never disappointed and managed to communicate one way or another. On our last night in Mérida, we went to a nearby park that hosts free concerts every Thursday night at 9:00 pm.  We really enjoyed the atmosphere. The gathering was huge, the performances excellent, but the speeches honoring the event were lost on us.

We booked a tour to Chichén Itzá, a Mayan ruin, about 1/3 of the way back to Cancun. We found an option where we could start our day with a group traveling round trip from Mérida and then switch to a group traveling round trip from Cancun. After checking out of the hotel in plenty of time for our 9:00 am tour, we waited, and waited. At 9:30 am, I asked the hotel desk to dial the tour company for me. The tour company asked us to wait a few more minutes. Finally, at 9:45 am, a couple of guys in a van picked us up and explained they would take us to our 19-seat tour van, which was at a gas station. Finally joining our tour group, we were on our way. Later in the day, our tour guide explained that it is not polite in Mexico to be on time and that they know many Americans have trouble adjusting to Mexican time. We were happy to have a tour guide at Chichén Itzá to explain what we were seeing.

After leaving Chichén Itzá, we went to a cenote (sinkhole). There are no rivers or lakes above ground in the Yucatan, but there are underground rivers and many cenotes. This particular cenote was spectacular.

After lunch, we waited for our new tour group, which was much larger and traveling by bus. While waiting, we met an interesting couple from Hong Kong. They were at the very end of a three-month vacation. They had been to Argentina, took a two-week cruise to Antarctica, visited Chile, the Galapagos, Guatemala, Mexico, and others. After about an hour wait, we were on our way to Cancun. They had told us the wait for the bus would be 20 minutes, but we knew that was not true as soon as the words left their mouths. We are adjusting to Mexican time. They normally return people to their hotels, but since we didn't have one, they agreed to leave us at the ADO bus terminal, where we knew it would be easy to get a taxi to our ferry in Puerto Juarez.  Our trip became very interesting once we got to Cancun, as we got a bus tour of the complete hotel district.  We had been interested in seeing it, but not necessarily willing to go out of our way to do so.  From our point of view, you would not know you were in Mexico in that part of Cancun.  We were the last to be dropped off.  A quick taxi ride, a run to catch the ferry, and a few minutes later, we were back at Isla Mujeres.  We were back on Ariel at 9:30 pm, exhausted from a week of substantial immersion into the Spanish language and Mexican culture.  It was wonderful.

Hacienda Soyuta De Peón

We took a one-day organized tour to Hacienda Soyuta De Peón, which is south of Mérida. Between the mid-19th century and mid-20th century, there was a boom for the fibers from the henequén plant. This grows well in the rugged, dry, and rocky Yucatan soil. The fibers are used primarily to make rope. Synthetic materials brought an end to the era.

Mérida

We decided to visit Mérida, which is in the Northwest part of the Yucatan Peninsula. To get there, we took the car ferry to the mainland (only 18 pesos, compared to 70 pesos for the high-speed ferry last week).  We then took a van to the bus terminal. Buses leave about every hour for Mérida, so we knew we could get one soon. We got the 12:30 pm ADO-GL,  and then we had about a four-hour ride from Cancun to Mérida. ADO or ADO-GL is the recommended level of service. It was very comfortable. Arriving in Mérida, we then took a taxi to our hotel, which we had booked in advance. We are staying at the Gran Real Yucatan near the city center. After getting settled in and washed up, we went out searching for a place to eat. We found a place with live music. Now that we are away from the high-tourist area of Cancun, the menu is more of a challenge. We're both ordering by names that sound good. So far, it has been working, and we are getting to try new dishes. To get off to a good start, we booked a two-hour narrated bus tour of the city for the next morning. At breakfast, we found almost all the other guests in the hotel were with a German tour group. We shared our table with a young German couple, so we had someone we could speak with in English. Before our tour, we checked out a couple of nearby churches. After our tour, we had lunch and then went to see a Dali art exhibit at the Olympio. Of course, we had to check out the shopping. Our best tip came from a local who pointed us to a Mayan Cooperative. We feel very comfortable in this city. The people are very friendly. The streets, parks, plazas, and shops are just bustling with activity. The little bit of Spanish we have absorbed is really paying off.

Bienvenidos a Mexico

Hola,

Isla Mujeres (EES-lah, moo-HEH-rehs), the island of women, is about five miles long and maybe at most 1/2 mile wide. It is offshore,  4 miles from the mainland state of Quintana Roo and about 4 1/2 miles NW of Cancun. High-speed ferries depart every 30 minutes to provide a steady stream of tourists from the Cancun hotel district. The north end of Isla Mujeres is packed with small shops, restaurants, and golf cart rentals, and that sort of thing. Our marina, fortunately, is well away in a quiet part of the island. All of the boats in the marina are foreign-flagged. It is about 1 1/2 miles to the tourist area, and we walk there daily, if nothing more than for exercise, but often for lunch.

Any boat staying in Mexico for more than 6 days is supposed to pay a $50 import fee. The certificate is good for ten years. Our first big adventure then was to go pay the fee. We took the ferry to Puerto Juarez, walked to the new government building, which houses Customs, Immigration, Health, and the one we needed - Banjercito. We provided forms with inventories of equipment and electronics on board and serial numbers for boats and engines. Jose at the marina reviewed our forms before we went, so it went smoothly. With our business completed, we immediately returned, as there really wasn't much to see in Puerto Juarez.

We have been fascinated watching the installation of some new pilings in the marina. The only power tool used was a pump to remove sand from the hole and sink the piling. The huge pilings were delivered by the road. These guys dragged the pilings to the water, then floated them to the site. They erected the scaffolding you see them on, worked the piling to a vertical position, and then one guy dives down to place the suction hose while the other two wiggle the piling. It slowly sinks several feet into the sand bed. These are very hard-working men.

Crossing To Mexico

We set our departure time from Key West based on our desired arrival time in Isla Mujeres using a range of speed assumptions. We wanted to arrive during daylight, preferably in the morning with the sun behind us. We arrived at our first waypoint, just off Key West, at 9:00 am exactly as planned, after topping off the fuel on the way out. We rolled out the sails and turned off the engine, and spent a fantastic day sailing to our next major waypoint, 12 miles south of the Dry Tortugas. We saw several turtles along the way, get it, turtles - tortugas. We then turned south toward Cuba for a nighttime crossing of the Gulf Stream. We shortened sails at night, so we rolled in the jib and started the engine, running at low RPMs. A shark checked us out with its fin, breaking the surface. We saw several ships during the night while running perpendicular to the shipping lanes. It was really dark until 1:00 am, when a half-moon finally made its appearance. The Gulf Stream was rough, making it virtually impossible to sleep when not on watch. With dawn, Cuba was visible on the horizon.

Cuba

Neither of us is prone to sea sickness, but we were concerned about the length of time at sea and the potential rough conditions. Linda put on wristbands that apply pressure to an acupuncture point. Norm took Stugeron, a drug known to combat seasickness, but not approved by the FDA or available in the US. Neither of us was at all seasick, so who knows. We were able to carry on all normal activities, including reading, with no ill effects.

Our plan was to be out of the Gulf Stream and catch a counter-current that usually runs along the coast of Cuba. Unfortunately, when we reached the 12-mile limit, still in international waters, we were still in the Gulf Stream. We had little choice but to turn west directly into it. For the next 24 or so hours, we pushed against a 2-knot current. Approaching Cabo San Antonio at the western tip of Cuba, we finally found a counter current, but it was less than half a knot and didn't last long. Crossing from Cuba to Mexico, we had a period of 5-plus knots of current with very high seas. Needless to say, we were very happy to finally get out of the Gulf Stream. Our total trip on the GPS was 401 miles from our Key West mooring to Marina Paraiso in Isla Mujeres. Still, the knotmeter recorded 488 miles, indicating we traveled an extra 87 miles due to adverse conditions. Good sailing conditions (very fast) and changing our route to shorten it by 20 miles let us still arrive on time. We were tied up at the marina at 10:45 am local time (11:45 am EST), and that was after waiting about 30 minutes for a boat to vacate the slip they had for us.

They recommend having all the paperwork ready before arriving, which includes 6 copies of our passports, 6 copies of our crew list,  and 4 copies of our ship's documentation. We did, and it was a good thing because Jose, who became our agent, jumped aboard to help with lines, and as soon as we had the last line tied, he wanted our documentation. Within minutes, Norm went up to the office to meet with Health and Sanitation. Our first obstacle was explaining why we did not have a Zarpe. When leaving the US, they do not clear you out of the country. Almost all countries will clear you out, and you show this to the next country to clear in. Norm provided the fuel receipt from Key West, when we topped off, and this was enough to get by. Within the hour, we had 8 officials aboard Ariel representing Immigration, Customs, and Health and Sanitation. Interestingly, these were all women. Norm wrote a letter addressed to the Port Captain explaining again why we did not have Zarpe. They know this, but it is a ritual, we guess. Jose did the running around in the afternoon to pay the fees and get the final approval from the Port Captain. The agent's fee for all this was only $30, but we tipped Jose generously. We were exhausted and were delighted we did not have to negotiate the clearing process on our own. We stayed aboard the rest of the day, even though we were cleared in and went to bed right after dinner.

Windsong Heading North

Ted and Alice on Windsong, after overcoming a dismasting and numerous maintenance issues, finally had to give up on the adventure when Ted received the results of his follow-up blood test. There is really no room for compromise in medical situations when cruising. They certainly could not set sail for about 72 hours with a known medical condition. It was extremely hard to continue on without them. We have traveled together for the past few months and during that time worked out our plans to visit Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. They are good friends, and we miss them dearly. Their home port is Oxford, Maryland, and they now plan to return with Windsong immediately. Their son Scott is a medical doctor, so they always have good, ready medical advice. Be safe, Ted and Alice

Key West Revisited

From early November 1968 through the beginning of May 1969, Norm was stationed in Key West to attend torpedo school. His school was on a small corner of the base next to the old seaplane base. This is on the north side of Key West, adjacent to Fleming Key. We are now on a mooring not far off from that exact area. He really enjoyed his time that winter in Key West and has always wanted to return. It has brought back a lot of wonderful memories, and it has been interesting to see the many changes. The school no longer exists. The grounds now have Key West School Board buildings and parking for the school buses.  His former classroom buildings still exist, but they are boarded up. The biggest change we see is in tourism levels. Back then, there were no cruise ship visits, and now we see one in port almost every day. The area that then had a shrimp boat fleet and shrimp processing plants now has modern marinas. Duval Street is much busier and even more crowded. Norm took the Conch Train ride back then. It is a narrated tour of the old town part of the city. He thinks that they had two or three trains at most. We just took the Conch Train tour, and they now have fifteen operating. That about says it all.

The Famous "Sloppy Joes"

The southernmost point in the United States 

Too Cold in Daytona

Bikers are finding it too cold in Daytona for the upcoming Bike Week, so they are coming to Key

West. The same thing happened last year, and they had to close Duval Street to make it a motorcycle parking lot.

Next Stop - Mexico

We are in Key West, waiting for an adequate period of settled weather to continue on. It has taken a long time to get here, but we have been watching the weather in the Gulf of Mexico carefully for the past three months, and it has been unsettled as one front after another passes through, with the southern branch of the jet stream very low in the US. We arrived in Key West on March 1, taking advantage of a brief period between fronts. Before leaving Marathon, we saw the potential for a good-sized weather window (favorable conditions) in the Gulf of Mexico beginning on March 5. We wanted to be positioned to take advantage of it. Why the interest in the Gulf of Mexico weather? Our next stop will be Isla Mujeres, Mexico, an island off the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula and just off Cancun. The trip will take us about three days and three nights at sea, the longest by far for us. We are still working on our exact routing, looking at the current Gulf Stream position and strength. We hope to transmit our position every few hours, which will then be posted on our blog. We will post on the blog just before we leave. We have not yet decided on a Friday or Saturday departure.

Marathon (Boot Key Harbor)

Our original plan for this winter was to be in Boot Key Harbor before Christmas and to secure a mooring for a month. Boot Key Harbor is one of the major gathering places for cruisers in the winter. There are 246 moorings and ample room for anchoring, although it is tight right now because there are so many boats. The major attraction here is its well-protected harbor, and the City Marina, which maintains the mooring field, is extremely friendly and offers good facilities. The delays for Windsong caused us to finally arrive here two months late. This turned out to be a blessing. While it is a nice place, we are now glad we did not spend a whole month here, especially with the unusually cool weather this year for Florida. In hindsight, spending the time in Cocoa was a much better option. We stayed a week in Boot Key Harbor and enjoyed our stay, but a week was plenty for us. We have concluded that these large gathering places where cruisers stay for extended periods and engage in organized activities are not our thing. John and Linda Piper now have their boat in Fort Myers. We last saw them in Solomons as they passed on their way south. They just returned to their boat after spending a couple of months back in Ohio. They drove down from Fort Myers to Marathon (Boot Key) to visit with us. While the visit was short, as they drove both ways in the same day, it was so nice to see them again, and it was the highlight of our stop in Marathon. The troubles for Windsong continue. They discovered a leak in the hydraulics for their steering after arriving in Boot Key. That has been fixed, but Ted then developed medical problems that required a trip to the hospital. He is feeling better now, but needs a follow-up visit before being cleared to travel. We have moved on to Key West without Windsong, given the level of uncertainty that they will be able to continue. We are hopeful that they will catch up with us.

Starting Down The Florida Keys

We are at last in new territory for us. Ted and Alice on Windsong re-joined us in North Palm Beach on February 14. Their boat is completely repaired and in good working order. We got underway the next day, taking the ICW to Pompano Beach and then the following day going outside down the coast to Miami. We spent two days exploring ashore in Miami Beach. We are now moving down the keys, expecting to be in Marathon on Sunday before the cold front.

This is the end of the line for us on the ICW. The Intracoastal Waterway continues on the inside (north) of the Keys, but becomes too shallow for the draft of Ariel. We will move to the outside, going out through Angel Fish Creek, which is at the end of Key Largo. We will use the Hawk Channel all the way to Key West. The Hawk Channel is between the outer reef and the Keys, so it is somewhat protected.

The Saga Continues

We have continued south without Windsong. Their woes continue. Before their repairs were finished, repairs on a bridge just south of their location were started, causing the center span height to be too low for their passage. They were then forced to wait for acceptable conditions to make an offshore leg. Our location at Fort Pierce was fine for a couple of days, but not good for the long term. We have previously spent a lot of time at the anchorage in North Palm Beach, and we like the area, so that is where we are now.  Windsong is back underway now, but we will not jinx it by predicting when we will meet up.

On the Move Again- Finally

We are now back in Fort Pierce, Florida. We last arrived here on April 2, last year, after returning from the Bahamas. We never dreamed it would be so long before we passed this way again. We are traveling temporarily without Windsong. Their boat is repaired now, and they should be just a day or two behind us. We just needed a change of scenery, so we started without them, but we are moving at a very slow pace. Last spring, we heard that the Farmers Market here in Fort Pierce is really worth visiting, so we timed our visit to coincide with the Saturday morning event. The advice was sound, and we returned with two large shopping bags filled with fruits, vegetables, and bread. It is noticeably warmer now that we have moved just a little farther south. The water is also warm and much clearer, with the Gulf Stream at work. Once Windsong arrives, we expect to quickly move on and will probably be in Miami for Super Bowl weekend.

Feels Like Winter Here In Florida

Ted and Alice on Windsong took about a month off from cruising to be home with their family for Christmas. They left Windsong at a boatyard in Cape Canaveral for repairs while they were away. We are at Cocoa Village Marina in Cocoa. We are not as far south as we would like to be, but we do like Cocoa and had jointly agreed on this area for the interruption to our travels southward. Almost since arriving here in mid-December, it has been unseasonably cold, with nighttime temperatures at or below freezing and daytime highs averaging in the 50s. A benefit of the marina is being plugged in, which gives us heat. Everything we need is readily available here in Cocoa. The bus stop is close to the marina, and the fare is only 60 cents. The bus stops at the mall entrance and at the Walmart entrance, so shopping is very convenient.

Almost as soon as we arrived in Cocoa, Linda's sister Darlene and her husband John were here to pick us up for a visit with them in their recently acquired second home in Sebring. We enjoyed spending a few days with them. Their neighborhood goes all out with outdoor Christmas decorations, and at night, the line of cars is nonstop as people from all over come to see the displays. This was a good way to get into the spirit of Christmas.

Having spent so much time this past summer getting Ariel in tip-top shape, there is little left to do now, so Linda is busy with cross-stitch, and Norm is keeping himself occupied with reading. There is a movie theater at the mall, so we treat ourselves occasionally. We did take on one major boat project. We decided to replace the vinyl windows in the dodger. The old vinyl had become scratched, and we concluded it had become a hazard. Again, the Sailrite sewing machine has proven to be a great investment. We replaced it with Stratoglas, a better material than what we removed, which should hold up very well.

Ted and Alice will return on January 18, and with the boat repaired, we hope we can get going again very soon thereafter. We had originally planned to be in the Keys before Christmas, but that idea fell through before we even got started due to delays in repairs. We expect to move very quickly in that direction.

Windsong Recovering

Windsong is getting its mast repaired on the go. They met with the insurance adjuster in Belhaven, NC, just two days after the accident. They decided to have an Annapolis, Maryland, rigger do the replacement. As it happens, this rigger would be in Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, the following weekend, visiting relatives, and he agreed to remove the mast and take it back to Annapolis. A new mast has already been ordered, and when it is ready, it will be shipped to a yard in Florida for installation. So far, we have only lost one day due to a really amazing accident. We spent the weekend in Wrightsville Beach, rented a car, and visited Norm's cousin Bob and his wife, Hattie, in Ocean Isle, about an hour south of Wrightsville Beach. On Sunday, they had some friends from work, along with us from both boats, over to their house for some Frogmore Stew. We all had a great afternoon and a wonderful meal.

Once called Frogmore Stew, this one-pot wonder was created by a National Guardsman when he needed to cook a meal for 100 soldiers. Richard Gay, who learned the recipe from his family, had everyone remembering his stew. The dish was later named Frogmore, after Richard's hometown, by the guards who teased him about his home. The postal service eliminated the name Frogmore, which changed this popular dish to Lowcountry boil.
This seafood dish combines shrimp, sausage, corn, and potatoes. Great for relaxing trips to the beach, it is also easy to create for a crowd. Lowcountry boil can be served on a newspaper for easy cleanup. Crab, onion, and butter are frequent additions to the pot, and having a removable drain basket only makes cooking easier. The rule of thumb here is the bigger the crowd, the bigger the pot.

Lowcountry Boil

4 pounds of small red potatoes
5 quarts of water
1 (3-ounce) bag of crab boil seasoning
4 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
2 pounds kielbasa or hot smoked link sausage, cut into 1½-inch pieces
6 ears of corn, halved
4 pounds large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
optional Cocktail sauce

Add potatoes to a large pot, then add 5 quarts of water and seasonings. Cover pot and heat to a rolling boil; cook 5 minutes. Add sausage and corn, and return to a boil. Cook 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender.
Add shrimp to the stockpot; cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the shrimp turn pink. Drain. Serve with cocktail sauce. Serves 12.

We are spending Thanksgiving at a marina on Pawleys Island, SC. The marina is managed by Ron Hamm. Ron and his wife, Silvia, are now former cruisers. We were introduced to them two years ago by Iain and Jan from Jocks Lodge. They just bought a home on Pawleys Island, finally giving up on cruising. We had a great visit to their new home on Wednesday evening. They already had family plans for Thanksgiving, but left us with their car and the keys to their home. Windsong and Ariel have split the preparation of the meal and will have a traditional turkey dinner on board Ariel.

What A Time In The Dismal Swamp

On Tuesday, November 10, just after exiting the lock at Deep Creek and entering the Dismal Swamp Canal, we stopped at the free Elizabeth Dock. Severe weather was forecast, and we knew Elizabeth Dock would be our best option, having waited on the weather there last year. As forecast, the southern Virginia and northern North Carolina area along the coast got beaten up pretty badly with a nasty Nor'easter. Remnants of Hurricane Ida combined with a strong coastal low, all of which was blocked by a high-pressure system to the north. We had around 8 inches of rain, and wind gusts were in the 60-70 mph range. We could not have been in a better spot since the locks somewhat protect the canal from coastal flooding. We saw the water level in the canal at our end rise about 6 inches, and they did open the floodgates to drain the excess. At the other end of the canal, the water had threatened to breach the lock. The bad news is that the winds toppled some trees across the canal. After the storm passed, we had to wait for the Army Corps of Engineers to clear the canal before we could move on. Finally, on Sunday, the canal was reopened. The current was still pretty strong in the very narrow canal, and we had to watch carefully for floating debris. While waiting on the 1:30 pm bridge at the far end of the canal, it was quite a challenge to handle the boat in the strong current from the receding floodwaters flowing toward the bridge. We managed to get turned around with our bow facing the current, which gave us much better control. Windsong was not so fortunate and got pulled over to the side. They snagged their mizzen mast on a tree limb, a hazard on this route, and were dismasted. They were able to come through the bridge with the toppled mast hanging over the side and a tree limb trailing. We all tied to a bulkhead between the bridge and the lock. We had made friends with Debra, her husband David, and her brother Scott on Ling Ling back at Deep Creek, so they also stopped to help out. Between all of us and several people from the neighborhood that turned out, we managed to recover the mast, strip it of all hardware, and get everything stowed on deck. We finished before dark, and we were all pretty worn out, but we enjoyed going out for pizza before turning in for the night.

We Are Heading South At Last

We are now back in Solomons, having failed to escape the Bay before the cold weather settled in. Last night there was a frost in our area. The good news is we are officially on our way south with our buddy boat, Windsong.

A little more than a week ago, we were passing the time on the very peaceful La Trappe creek, enjoying watching huge flocks of geese, when Norm got the idea to defrost the freezer. Having completed this not-so-enjoyable task, the next day Linda noticed the temperature was slowly rising in the freezer. It was very apparent that in Norm’s haste to get the defrosting done, he had damaged the evaporator plate. We decided to return to Oxford, now a day sooner than we had planned, to be in a better position to make a repair. Just before arriving at Oxford, we had a call from Ted. He had found that his engine heat exchanger was leaking, and the entire unit would need to be replaced. The part would need to be shipped in, and therefore, we could not leave on schedule. We shared our story, and we were both relieved that we were not holding each other up. The US distributor for our refrigeration system is in Bowie, Maryland, so we arranged to go to their office to pick up the parts they recommended: a replacement evaporator and a filter dryer as a precaution, since the system had been compromised by the leak. Ted's brother-in-law, David, loaned us his car for the trip to Bowie. Norm installed the really labor-intensive parts, especially fitting the evaporator in the freezer. We made arrangements with Bachelors Point Marina and Boat Yard to evacuate the system and recharge it with R134 refrigerant. We tied up at their T head and stayed a few hours to allow the system to settle down after the new charge. Meanwhile, Ted and Alice were continuing to have their own problems. The first part sent in was defective, so a second had to be shipped. During testing of the new heat exchanger, a leak in the exhaust system at the mixing elbow was discovered, which ultimately required fabricating a replacement. Both boats were then ready, and wouldn't you know, the winds on the Chesapeake were gusting 35, causing another day's delay.

We enjoyed our stay in Oxford. It is rich in history, having been established as Maryland's first port in 1683. Ted's sister Margarete and her husband David invited us to dinner one evening. Margarete made the best crab cakes either of us has ever had. They are wonderful hosts with fascinating stories and have a beautiful home overlooking the Tred Avon River.

Eastern Shore

Having been delayed in Solomons, we trimmed our eastern shore exploration to the Choptank area. Our first visit was to Oxford, where Ted and Alice keep Windsong. They are wrapped up in the final, no matter how well planned, hectic preparations. They took time out to show us around Oxford. Ted's sister and her husband have a beautiful home on the waterfront. They graciously welcomed us into their home. A special treat was to spend a day fishing for rockfish. Ted and his sister own a wooden-hulled fishing boat. Originally built as a workboat, it was soon converted for recreational use. We didn't catch any fish, but we sure enjoyed the day. After leaving Oxford, we went to St. Michael's, arriving at the back door to save a long trip around. We have been there before by car on a couple of occasions and enjoyed seeing it again. After leaving St. Michaels, we went on up the Choptank to Cambridge. There is a small boat basin in town, and we had it to ourselves for the few days we stayed there. Cambridge is of a pretty good size, so we got in plenty of walking.

Ted and Alice

Ariel in Oxford

There are dozens upon dozens of places to anchor in the Choptank and all of the creeks and rivers that flow into it. We will spend the next few days sampling a few of these. We will return to Oxford on Saturday, and weather permitting, Ariel and Windsong will begin the trip south on Monday.

Rain, Rain And More Rain

We never expected to still be in Solomons at this late date. We went into Spring Cove Marina for one night to facilitate a survey of our boat the following morning. The survey, an in-depth inspection of the boat's structure and safety conducted by a professional, was required because we are changing insurance carriers. Our plans this winter will take us to the Western Caribbean, which was not covered by our current policy. The survey found only two very minor deficiencies, which we corrected the same day. After the survey, we returned to anchor in Back Creek with a forecast of several days of bad weather. Our next planned stop is Oxford, Maryland, on the Chesapeake's eastern shore and due northeast from Solomons. The winds were forecast to be from the northeast for the next week. It has been just downright cold and rainy, and breezy. It has rained almost continuously for days, with daily high temperatures barely breaking 50. We have made only a couple of excursions off the boat, one to visit Peter and Jane Bugg off Kinvara, dock mates from our marina in Rhode Island, and another just to go ashore for a cup of tea to stretch our legs. John and Linda Piper on Sea Life are anchored nearby, also pinned down, due to high seas. They have been anxious to get to the Norfolk area. We will be traveling again with Ted and Alice aboard Windsong. They keep their boat in Oxford when not traveling, hence Oxford is our next destination. We are looking forward to getting together to work on cruise plans.

More Friends Come To Solomons

After leaving the marina, we stayed relatively close to Solomons Island. We planned to meet Don and Janet Leech, friends from Pittsburgh, when they came to Maryland for the boat show and then go on to Solomons. We also expected John and Linda Piper, aboard Sea Life, also mutual friends of Don and Janet, to arrive the same weekend. John and Linda are on their way south, having started in Sandusky, Ohio, in late August. We returned from Smith Creek, just behind Point Lookout at the entrance to the Potomac River, on Friday to find Sea Life quietly anchored in Back Creek. Many years ago, when we lived in Ohio and sailed on Lake Erie in our previous boat, we took many weekend and vacation cruises with John and Linda. We have been looking forward to sharing a few days in the same anchorage with them for a long time now. Don and Janet arrived a day sooner than expected, and we were happy to see them. They sail out of Sandusky, Ohio, and take extended summer cruises on the Great Lakes. We really enjoyed hearing about their trip this past summer from Lake Erie to the North Channel and then on to Lake Michigan. They were very kind to run us around shopping for a few needed items.

John and Linda Piper, Don and Janet Leech

We Are Back in Cruising Mode

Elizabeth Louise Lounsberry

Elizabeth L. Lounsberry, 88, of 2174 Lounsberry Rd., died Sunday (May 17, 2009) at Geneva General Hospital. Elizabeth was born Dec. 7, 1920, in Hector, the daughter of Albert and Frances Simmons Hammond. Elizabeth was a member of the Red Hat Society. She is survived by one son, Durwood (Terry) Lounsberry of Penn Yan; four daughters, Lois Force of Howard, Linda (Norman) Karns, formerly of Massachusetts, Darlene (John) Hoffman of Penn Yan, Dale (Steve) Case of Florida; 13 grandchildren; 11 great-grandchildren; two brothers, Amos (Laura) Hammond of Penn Yan, Tom (Lena) Hammond of Indiana; two sisters, Hazel Sabol of Virginia, and Marg Higby of Illinois; a special niece, Sylvia Fix of Rochester; as well as several other nieces and nephews. She was predeceased by her husband, Durwood, in 1998, as well as six brothers, Lewis, Clem, Pete, Alfred, Bill, and Fred. 

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We left Spring Cove Marina in Solomons on October 1, after a four-month stay. This summer was our time to visit family and friends and to complete a few boat projects.

Late last May, we were still in the Dismal Swamp, sitting out an all-day rain event, when we received word that Linda's mother, Elizabeth, aged 88, passed away. At the time, she was in a nursing home recovering from hip surgery, and plans were being made for more permanent arrangements, so it actually came as a surprise. We had already made arrangements with a marina on Solomons Island for the summer, so we checked with them to be sure we could arrive a few days earlier than planned. We were still two days away, and the weather was not cooperating. We moved the next day to Hampton in a light drizzle but were then pinned down there for a day due to high winds and rough seas on the Chesapeake Bay. The following day, the wind clocked around enough that we decided we could probably get some sails up to help pound through the waves. It worked as planned, and we arrived at our new summer home late in the afternoon to be greeted by Linda's sister, Dale, and her husband Steve. They were driving up from Florida, and we had made arrangements for them to pick us up on their way to Penn Yan in upstate New York. On the return trip, they dropped us off at BWI airport, as we already had tickets to fly to Cleveland to retrieve our car from storage.
Having made reservations at Spring Cove Marina, sight unseen, we have been extremely pleased. It was perfect for a long-term stay. They have a large tree-covered park-like area with several picnic tables and charcoal grills, which we especially liked.
Our summer was a mix of boat projects, getting Ariel ready for another couple of years on the go, and visits to family and friends. In June, we spent a week vacationing with our three children and their families in a large Victorian house we rented in Grand Haven, Michigan. It was a real treat to have everyone together. There was a pool, which was all that was needed to keep our four grandchildren happy. The vacation home was located within a couple of blocks of the downtown area with its shops and restaurants, and also just a few blocks from the very active waterfront. It was touch-and-go whether Pamela would be able to travel to our gathering so late in her pregnancy. Just a few weeks later, on July 23, their second daughter, Claire Parker Supelak, was born.

In mid-June, we returned to upstate New York to visit family. We stayed with Norm's mom. We moved all of our belongings from our shipping container to a garage owned by Norm's mother. With the passing of Linda's mother, the future of the property on which the container is has become uncertain.

We were at the marina for four months, actually slightly longer, and were anxious to get back to traveling. We made one last trip to visit our families, which took us to New York, Ohio, and Michigan. We spent a couple of days with each of our children and grandchildren. We stayed with Norm's mom a few days while she recovered from a needed surgery. She recovered quickly, and she and Norm's brother Bill brought us back to Ariel and then spent the weekend. We had a wonderful weekend, which included a day in Washington, D.C. Bill had never been to Washington. He did a tour in Vietnam with the 173rd Airborne, and, as difficult as it was for him, he visited the Vietnam Memorial.

Just before leaving Spring Cove Marina, we had a surprise visit from Harry and Barbara Cochran, church friends from Franklin, MA. They travel around the country in a 5th wheel RV, and we enjoyed exchanging experiences with them. There is so much commonality between the RV and cruising communities. Our paths have come close to crossing several times in the past couple of years, so it was very nice to finally connect.

Presenting our granddaughter 

Claire Parker Supelak 

born on July 23, 2009 at 1:34 pm 7# 6oz, 19.5 inches

Bill and Norm

Beautiful day visiting our capitol 

Norm's Mom and brother Bill

Harry and Barbara Cochran

Parked In Solomons

We are now at our summer home at Spring Cove Marina in Solomons, Maryland. It is a wonderful marina, one we had noted when anchored nearby in the past. We have already retrieved our car from storage in Ohio, so we also have the luxury of personal transportation. We expect to stay here for at least three months, mixing our time between visiting family and friends and completing some much-needed maintenance on the boat. We already have a good start on the exterior teak. Norm disassembled our windlass (used to lower and lift the anchor) and ordered the parts to bring it back to new condition. It is no longer manufactured, but he found a source for parts in the United Kingdom. So far, we've repaired rather than replaced, but we are not sure how long we can continue, especially with the electronics.

Since we are staying put, we will probably not be adding updates to the blog. Once we get going again, we will, of course, publish updates.